Detrivore

An ingredient lexicon

INCI name

Ascorbic Acid

Also listed as: Vitamin C, L-ascorbic acid

Ascorbic acid is vitamin C. In skincare it is used in serums, usually at a low pH, because the pure acid is unstable in water and oxidises to a yellow or brown colour when it degrades. Many products use derivatives instead, such as sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside or tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, each with its own INCI name and its own stability profile.

A brown, rusty-smelling vitamin C serum has probably oxidised. The colour change is a practical clue, not a precise assay.

Where it turns up

Face serums, some brightening creams and a few powders that are mixed at home.

Sensitivities

The acid form can sting, especially at low pH or on broken skin. Derivatives are often milder, though not always.

Vegan or animal-derived

Usually synthetic. Vegan.

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