Detrivore

An ingredient lexicon

INCI name

Sodium Hyaluronate

Also listed as: The sodium salt of hyaluronic acid

Sodium hyaluronate is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, a large sugar molecule that holds water. The salt dissolves more easily in water than the acid form, so it is the name you will usually see on a serum label.

The ingredient can be made by bacterial fermentation, which is now the usual cosmetic source, or historically from animal tissue such as rooster combs. A vegan claim depends on the source, not on the INCI name.

Molecular weight varies. Lower-weight grades are marketed as penetrating further; higher-weight grades form a surface film that feels slippery and moist. The label almost never states the weight.

Where it turns up

Serums, moisturisers, sheet masks and some eye products.

Sensitivities

Usually well tolerated. In very dry air, as with other humectants, a high-glycerin or high-hyaluronate serum can feel tight unless you seal it with a cream.

Vegan or animal-derived

Only if it is made by fermentation. Ask the maker if the pack is silent.

Back to the S entries